FG-300 Replacement Pick Guard

I'm not the one making it or setting the price, but it's great that good quality replacement is available.  Hopefully you can afford it soon.

I haven't published this yet, but here's some info on how to replace a loose pick guard.  In your case, heat caused the celluloid pickguard material to break down and crumble.


RE-ATTACHING A LOOSE PICKGUARD by Dave Fengler

Chances are if you’re reading this, your pickguard is either loose or has fallen off. This happens because the manufacturer didn’t put any finish under most of it. There’s typically about a 1/4” lip of finish all around, the rest is bare wood. Adhesive doesn’t stick to bare wood, so there isn’t much attaching the pickguard. Over time the celluloid material the pickguard is made from shrinks causing it to separate from what little area it is stuck to.

In some cases, people have attempted to re-attach the pickguard by squirting some kind of glue under it. That is typically temporary and just makes a big mess to clean up later.

To properly fix this the pickguard must be removed and all the glue must be removed from the pickguard and the top of the guitar. And, the bare wood must have a finish applied if the new adhesive has a chance of holding the pickguard on in the long term.



REMOVING THE PICKGUARD

Tools & supplies required:

Hair dryer.

Thin spatula.

If the pickguard is loose, sometimes it will pull off will little force. The key is “little force.” Don’t pull too hard or you risk breaking the pickguard or tearing some of the top off. A hair dryer and a thin spatula work great to slowly soften the glue and get under the pickguard to remove it. Don’t risk taking any of the top off with the pickguard by rushing the process.



REMOVING THE ADHESIVE

Tools & supplies required:

Razor blade.

Once the pickguard is off of the guitar, all the old adhesive must be removed from the back of the pickguard and the top of the guitar.

Use a razor blade to carefully scrape the adhesive off without taking off much of the material below it. Denatured alcohol works well to soften the glue on the pickguard, making scraping it off very easy.



FILL THE BARE WOOD

Tools & supplies required:

Shellac.

½” acid bush.

320 grit sandpaper.

Razor blade.

Once all the adhesive has been removed, a finish should to be applied to the bare wood for the new adhesive to stick to. I use shellac applied with a ½” wide acid brush. Apply thin coats to the bare wood only, wait an hour or two, then lightly sand (320 grit) the shellac (so the next coat adheres well), and apply more. It goes without saying that you don’t want to get shellac on the exposed top finish (although it cleans up with denatured alcohol), and you certainly don’t want to sand the exposed top finish.

Build up 3 or 4 coats, but be sure the last coat has dried first. You’ll know if it hasn't dried as it will be gummy while sanding.

Let the shellac dry for at least 24 hours, then scrape any high spots with a razor blade - typically any overlap with the existing finish. The shellac doesn’t have to be built up perfectly flush with the existing finish, but you don’t want any high spots.


RE-ATTACHING THE PICKGUARD

Tools & supplies required:

Pickguard adhesive sheet. www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Pickguard_Materials/3M_Pickguard_Adhesive_Sheet.html

Spray bottle containing water and a couple of drops of dish washing soap.

Rectangular piece of ¾” plywood not much bigger than the pickguard.

Clear ¼” thick Plexiglas/Lexan clamping caul, cut ¼” oversize from the pickguard shape.

Various types and sizes of clamps. I use squeeze & screw type bar clamps and spring clamps.

Razor blade.

DAY 1 -

Trace the shape of the pickguard on the WHITE (or BLUE) backing side. DO NOT trace it on the brown side. Don't ask why I know... You’ll end up with a mirror image.

Cut the pickguard adhesive sheet out, leaving a 1/4" extra all around.

Peel off the white/blue backing side and mist the slightly soapy water on the adhesive.

Then mist the back of the pickguard. This makes positioning the pickguard MUCH easier since it doesn't instantly stick where it hits, it floats on the water.

Center the pickguard on the adhesive sheet, press it tightly, then turn it over and push out any bubbles under the adhesive sheet.

Then clamp it with the clear caul (with the pickguard on top of the adhesive), and let it dry for a day. Use enough clamps to be sure the pickguard is held tightly to the adhesive sheet all the way around.

DAY 2 –

Remove the clamps.

Trim the excess adhesive sheet from the edges of the pickguard with the razor blade.

Be sure there are no high spots in the shellac filled pickguard area on the top. Scrape them with a razor, being sure you don’t scrape the exposed guitar top.

Put small pieces of painter's tape around the pickguard area, and matching pieces on the pickguard.

Position the pickguard EXACTLY where it should be and make alignment marks on the pieces of tape.

Use tape to protect the bridge and fretboard as necessary from water spray.

Put a small towel in the sound hole to keep water from getting to the interior unprotected wood.

PRACTICE YOUR CLAMPING with the clear caul to get the pickguard held firmly to the top all around. It should take 4 to 6 clamps.

Carefully remove the brown backing from the pickguard adhesive. Start at the thin end of the pickguard.

Lightly mist the adhesive and guitar top with the slightly soapy water.

Carefully position the pickguard matching the alignment marks and press the pickguard to the top. Work out as much water as possible as the pickguard will be less likely to shift while clamping.

Using the clear caul, clamp the pickguard to the top. Be aware it will move slightly as you are adding clamps!!!! Check it often until it is fully clamped and in the right position.

Let it dry for a day or two. Then unclamp.

I'm not selling it.  I'm just providing a link to someone who is.  reverb.com/item/18115878-yamaha-fg-300-replica-pickguard-free-shipping

And this is for the FG-300.  Most models have the plain black pickguard.  But you could put this one on a FG-140, although it might look odd.

also looking to possibly sell the fg140 but have no idea of it's worth...any thoughts?

Thanks!

The value varies greatly depending on condition, playability, and where you try to sell it.  Most vintage guitars have high action and need a neck reset, which many times costs more than the guitar is worth.  eBay and Reverb will get you the most, but you'll have to deal with shipping.  Facebook Marketplace next, then CraigsList.  The FG-140 is a great guitar, pretty much the same as the FG-180.  I'd say $100 to $500.  Reverb is a good source for pricing, just ignore the crazy high ones. reverb.com/marketplace?query=yamaha%20fg-140

They're out already??  A couple of days ago I got a notification they were back in stock, but they probably have a waiting list.

He sent me a "B" stock version to check the fit on a FG-300 I was working on.  The customer bought a good one and had it shipped to me for final assembly.

Hi everybody. New to the forum and having the problem of an all original half loose pick guard on my FG-300. It is slightly warped, too. Of course I would like to keep the original and reglue it. Anybody who has experience with this? I am a bit worried that it might break under too much pressure. Cheers!