Bridge Plate

I wouldn't try to remove the bridge plate unless absolutely necessary. And I don't like the idea of adding the weight of a piece of brass to the bridge. I've epoxied 1/16" maple over existing worn bridge plates (but never in a FG), added epoxy to the bottom of the bridge pin holes, redrilled & taper reamed thru the existing holes. It's not easy because you want to make the plate the same shape as the existing plate, and you need to make a clamping caul to hold it in place.

But first, how worn are the bridge pin holes? Are the string ball ends coming up thru the bridge plate? Every FG I've seen had splintered bridge pin holes because they didn't back them up when drilling. While it doesn't look good, typically there's still enough wood to support the ball ends.

Many well used FG's have had the strings cut into the bridge, making slots. Some people like slotted bridges. Then you can use unslotted pins. Again, as long as the ball ends aren't coming up thru the bridge plate I wouldn't worry about it.

Post some pictures.

Could you share your serial number?  

Any chance you could find the internal date code?

Pin hole are fine but the string end where almost touching the saddle. Also, I do have have the splintered bridge pin holes they are also Ok. 
I think I touch them with Titebond many years.
I have been inside my guitar dozens time, checking strut, braces, etc. there are no numbers. I also did some fret work on another FG 170 made at the Nippo Gakki factory for Japanese market only (like mine) & that one also didn't have any number except for the hand written K in ink below the label. ( see image)

The Platemate (StewMac) is only 2 1/2” L. x about 5/8” W. x .032” T. it weights nothings.  Just don't like the sound so much but they do work great & they seem very popular?  The image of the Platemate is not my Guitar.   I do like your idea of the 1/16” Maple. Next time I have the strings off I shoot some inside images. I also took off a little over a 1/8” off my neck & made it more of a C shape (Martin) instead of the D shape neck. I have arthritis in the hands & it make is easier for me to play. Because of it size it is my favorite guitar to play.  Thanks LJ
PS  Happy Holidays!


ammonia gas symbol

Do you know of any drop in turners (don't want to drill out the holes) for my FG170. I check with Yamaha both in Japan & hear & they don't make them anymore or have any in stock. I have rebuilt mine and they are much better. Mainly the claw holding the worm get worn out & bent out of shape.  Have to be very careful bending then back. The new turner have much better gears etc. Couple of images including the inside neck (no serial number?) & the turners. Thanks LJ

Hi Dave, I guess once the new bridge plate is installed the holes can be drilled though and reamed to size? No need to drill the holes prior to gluing the bridge plate in?
You said that the new bridge plate should be cut to size as the original bridge plate - is that so that it will fit between the X braces and add some more strength underneath the bridge?
I found a supplier of maple here in Australia. Easy enough - a few luthier suppliers here.

CTGull,