Fg-165-s

I leave the belly. That stuff will work on solid tops. There's nothing you can do that will majorly change the 40+ year old plywood. Check for loose braces, just in case.

I've had limited success parallel clamping the top to compress the belly. The couple that it worked took 4-6 months in traction for the top to show improvement. There's a possibility everything may slowly return to where it had been for decades, or result in only some of the improvement still there a year later. Or the clamping will pop braces loose. Most plywood guitars just won't move. That's the advantage of it, stability.

What are the 2 sets of serial numbers?

Well, optimal = fresh. But, I always make it a bit high. You can sand it lower. The hard part is keeping the numbers straight. And the actual action after the neck reset doesn't always match the theoretical action. How you hold the neck to the body will affect the measured numbers during the neck reset. And check your numbers a few times, and check often. If you're sanding and nothing seems to be changing, take a step back and reevaluate, or get back to it tomorrow and check again. I've had lots of weird stuff happen I couldn't explain. And a lot can go wrong if you don't check much or assume all is going well and don't check often enough.

The lower 0915807 would make the upper number 60826272. 8/26/1976.

If you look for the date code I'd expect 65.7.??.

I couldn't seem to locate the date code.  I'm sure it's there somewhere?

Here's a few pictures of the guitar.  I love the sunburst.








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Actually, there is something you can do. A lot of times you can avoid a neck reset entirely if you can get the belly down and adjust the truss rod to straighten the neck. Check it out...


yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/197/howdy

Sure, if the neck is diving into the soundhole the angle will need to be reset. Some are, some aren't. Any guitar with the neck still pretty much straight and level with the guitar top, but with a bellied bridge, can be restored to very playable condition without a neck reset. The issue is the wood and the GLUE have been pulled out of shape by string tension. Assuming no top cracks or loose braces, you can soften the glue by heating up the guitar and press the top down to where it needs to be. Then use something heavy to maintain the flattened top until it cools. The glue re-sets to the new shape and the bellied bridge is gone, largely obviating the need for a neck reset. I've done it numerous times to 6 string and 12 string guitars, solid wood and plywood. Your statement that there is nothing you can do that will majorly change the 40+ year old plywood is inaccurate.