$75 1974 FG-160

Great story! Finding an old FG that doesn't need a neck reset is rare.  Any before and after pictures?

I just finished a neck reset on a 1973 FG-160. Of the (5) FG necks I've removed, this was the toughest.  They not only glued the internal dovetail, they glued the neck heel to the sides of the guitar.

Any chance you can share the serial numbers and other info for my list?  See this page for more info.  yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/49/yamaha-serial-numbers-interior-markings   I'm also looking for the exact wording of the label.  It could be Made in Taiwan/Rebublic of Chine or Republic of China/Made in Taiwan.  Depending on when it was made.  I'm also looking for the markings on the headstock, it will probably be 3 tuning forks with YAMAHA.  The internal date code would be a major bonus, but that can be hard to find without removing the strings.

I wouldn't say a 1974 FG-160 is anything special.  They're fairly common.  Could you share the serial numbers?  There's an 8 digit number on the brace just inside the soundhole, and a 7 digit number on the neck block below.  Also, does the label say Made In Taiwan Republic of China OR Republic of China Made In Taiwan?? 1974 had both versions.

A dime thickness is .053", so 2 dimes and a little more is about 1/8".  That's really high.  I like to see 5/64" at the 12th fret, measured with the first fret pressed to take the nut action out of the equation.  1/8" - 5/64" is 3/64".  The amount needed to be removed at the saddle is 2X the difference at the 12th fret, so 3/64" x 2 = 3/32".  It might work IF you have more than 1/8" of saddle exposed.

What is your neck relief?  If that is high, it can affect the action.  Press the 1st & 14th frets and measure the distance at the 7th fret.  The standard is .005" to .008",  or 1 to 2 thicknesses of paper.  It would have to be at least double that to affect the action much.

The other test for the neck angle is to place a 24" straight edge edgewise on the fretboard and slide it up until it hits the bridge.  It should project slightly above the bridge.  More than likely it will not.  If it projects more than 1/16" below the bridge the neck angle is probably too far off.  BUT, if the neck relief is off, that will throw this measurement off.  You will also see it as a gap under the straight edge at the 7th fret.

Another option is to sand the top of the bridge lower to allow you to sand the saddle lower.  I don't recommend lower than a 5/16" bridge, BUT if this is just going to be a beater guitar you can sand it as low as you can but still have 1/16" of saddle slot depth left at the ends.  You might be able to get down to 1/4" thick.

Okay, serial #'s    41109243

                           0631431

Label says Made in China on Top, then Made in Taiwan (tan label)

Additional info on the guitars shape as I checked more carefully and with straight edge.

Neck relief with a straight edge along all frets.  .022 on 7th fret

Holding 1st and 14th fret at 7th fret  .013

Straight edge on all the frets planes in almost 1/16" below the top of the bridge. Not more, less if any.

Action on the low E is right at about 1/8", maybe a hair strong.

I am cautiously optimistic that with fixing the neck relief, rechecking where the fret line hits the bridge and shaving down the bottom (I assume) of the saddle, I should have acceptable action?

If you have a moment, let me know what you think with these stats and if my approach seems correct.

Thank you for all the wonderful detailed information you have so graciously posted on this website!

 Cheers, Jerome

Those numbers aren't all that bad. The neck relief is maybe double, but not bad. Adjusting that isn't going to affect the action, at least it won't be noticeable. The neck projecting 1/16" below the bridge isn't too bad.

If you take 3/32" off the bottom of the saddle, that will leave maybe 1/16" exposed. That's really low. How high is the bridge? I'm hoping 5/16" or more. You could sand the bridge down possibly 1/16", giving you more exposed saddle and a better string break angle.