Post by CTGull on Apr 7, 2024 11:08:58 GMT -5
HER STORY: This FG-335 was given to me by my brother and mother for my 18th birthday in the mid-1990s- who knows its story before then? They probably purchased it used in the Hudson Valley or Pittsfield, Mass. My brother is a great guitarist and I had always avoided it, but I was leaving for college and I wouldn't have my staff guitarist to accompany me while I sang anymore- I think that's why they got me the FG-335. I learned some chords and strummed away, and a couple years later started writing songs- first some jokey ballads with my roommate, then some more serious singer-songwritery stuff. My habit of not clipping the nails on my left hand definitely left it's mark on the fretboard, and a friend dented the headstock on one corner during a particularly ridiculous jam session. Otherwise it remained in pretty good condition over the years, even though it spent a few in storage. Eventually I upgraded to a Larivee with pickup, which was great for making some recordings, but I always found myself gravitating back to the FG-335. A couple years ago my brother started playing in a Neil Young cover band and I "loaned" him my Larivee, which was secretly a relief and made it all the more apparent that I would need to get the Yamaha fixed. In the years I've had it, it's lived in New York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and New Hampshire. It hasn't been played much at all in the last ten years, as I gravitated to the banjo.
OBSERVATIONS: The guitar is in really good shape for it’s age. A few very minor dings and scratches, the worst being a ding in the front treble corner of the headstock, which is barely noticeable. The main noticeable playing wear are deep divots in the first position area of the fretboard from her nails, and pick scratches on the pickguard. The tuners work well, the pickguard is solid on the top. The treble side of the first three frets look like they have been leveled, with longitudinal filing/sanding scratches. The bridge has some cool dark grain lines, as does the headstock (which isn’t common).
Tuned to “E”, the neck relief is a bit high, the nut action is OK for the E & A, but increases gradually for the higher strings, because of the “fret leveling” that has been previously done. The action is a little under 5/32” low E and a little over 1/8” high E. The bridge is .27” thick. The saddle sticks out .16”/.13” (low E/high E), certainly the original height.
DAY 1 – Removed the truss rod cover, putting the cover in a small zip lock bag, and that bag and the screws in a slightly larger bag, and that bag in a large bag for the job. Adjusting the truss rod for a proper neck relief on the bass side, I find zero neck relief on the treble side, because of the fret leveling that had previously done. Now we know that absolutely should have been done, since it adversely affected the nut action and neck relief measurements. Retuning to “E”, the action is now 1/8” low E and a little under 7/64” high E. Putting the straight edge on the frets, it hits on the 1st & 16th, with a .010” gap in the middle, and hitting the bridge .06” below the top. Which is the exact point of suggesting the guitar needing a neck reset. The 1/8” action should be 5/64”, so it would need to be lowered 3/64”. That would require taking 2X that at the saddle = 3/32” (.094”). .16” (saddle height) -.09” (required saddle lowering) = .07” of saddle sticking out of the bridge. The treble side would be .03” less, at .04”. While this would still be functional, it is certainly far from optimal, so a neck reset is in order.
Slacked the strings, removed the bridge pins, strings, and saddle. The saddle was VERY snug, the tightest stock saddle I’ve ever encountered. I have special plastic tipped non-marring pliers, just for doing this, and it took many tries to finally pull the saddle out. It measures .115”/.112” thick, tapered from the bass to treble end. The slot measures .116”/.113”/.114” (bass/middle/treble), showing that it was tight in the middle.
Using a bright light and mirrors, I inspected the inside, finding the usual Yamaha light bracing, and lots of odd stains. Also, the bridge plate is plywood, with what looks to be mahogany for the inner ply, and the holes aren’t blown out or chewed up like earlier models.
Cool grain lines I had already removed the truss rod cover.
Lots of pick scratches.
Minor buckle rash.
The lacquer radius isn't huge.
The heel cap is separated from the binding. Which is good, for the neck removal.
And a little lacquer cracking in the corner. I'm guessing it may have taken a hit.
The action is a bit high.
Cool grain lines.
The higher strings are buried in the nut.
The huge divots!
Trying to show the longitudinal scratches on the treble side of the first 3 frets.
The treble side of the first three frets are a bit low.
The upper serial number, lightly stamped.
The lower serial number.
The date code.
The top bracing, and the plywood bridge plate.
The bridge plate holes aren't blown out or chewed up!!
OBSERVATIONS: The guitar is in really good shape for it’s age. A few very minor dings and scratches, the worst being a ding in the front treble corner of the headstock, which is barely noticeable. The main noticeable playing wear are deep divots in the first position area of the fretboard from her nails, and pick scratches on the pickguard. The tuners work well, the pickguard is solid on the top. The treble side of the first three frets look like they have been leveled, with longitudinal filing/sanding scratches. The bridge has some cool dark grain lines, as does the headstock (which isn’t common).
Tuned to “E”, the neck relief is a bit high, the nut action is OK for the E & A, but increases gradually for the higher strings, because of the “fret leveling” that has been previously done. The action is a little under 5/32” low E and a little over 1/8” high E. The bridge is .27” thick. The saddle sticks out .16”/.13” (low E/high E), certainly the original height.
DAY 1 – Removed the truss rod cover, putting the cover in a small zip lock bag, and that bag and the screws in a slightly larger bag, and that bag in a large bag for the job. Adjusting the truss rod for a proper neck relief on the bass side, I find zero neck relief on the treble side, because of the fret leveling that had previously done. Now we know that absolutely should have been done, since it adversely affected the nut action and neck relief measurements. Retuning to “E”, the action is now 1/8” low E and a little under 7/64” high E. Putting the straight edge on the frets, it hits on the 1st & 16th, with a .010” gap in the middle, and hitting the bridge .06” below the top. Which is the exact point of suggesting the guitar needing a neck reset. The 1/8” action should be 5/64”, so it would need to be lowered 3/64”. That would require taking 2X that at the saddle = 3/32” (.094”). .16” (saddle height) -.09” (required saddle lowering) = .07” of saddle sticking out of the bridge. The treble side would be .03” less, at .04”. While this would still be functional, it is certainly far from optimal, so a neck reset is in order.
Slacked the strings, removed the bridge pins, strings, and saddle. The saddle was VERY snug, the tightest stock saddle I’ve ever encountered. I have special plastic tipped non-marring pliers, just for doing this, and it took many tries to finally pull the saddle out. It measures .115”/.112” thick, tapered from the bass to treble end. The slot measures .116”/.113”/.114” (bass/middle/treble), showing that it was tight in the middle.
Using a bright light and mirrors, I inspected the inside, finding the usual Yamaha light bracing, and lots of odd stains. Also, the bridge plate is plywood, with what looks to be mahogany for the inner ply, and the holes aren’t blown out or chewed up like earlier models.
Cool grain lines I had already removed the truss rod cover.
Lots of pick scratches.
Minor buckle rash.
The lacquer radius isn't huge.
The heel cap is separated from the binding. Which is good, for the neck removal.
And a little lacquer cracking in the corner. I'm guessing it may have taken a hit.
The action is a bit high.
Cool grain lines.
The higher strings are buried in the nut.
The huge divots!
Trying to show the longitudinal scratches on the treble side of the first 3 frets.
The treble side of the first three frets are a bit low.
The upper serial number, lightly stamped.
The lower serial number.
The date code.
The top bracing, and the plywood bridge plate.
The bridge plate holes aren't blown out or chewed up!!
