Just purchased at a pawn shop a FG 180, 3 tuning fork, Nippon Gakki Red label, no SN, with 47-8-7 date stamp inside which corresponds to 1972 August 7th for production of the sides. I assume that this guitar was still a Japanese production model?? It has seen a lot of use but is still in decent shape. Has a little belly bow which causes high action. Should I try what the last poster did to get the bow out of the top? or does this guitar need a neck reset? I will post pics soon. My brother had on of these 30 years ago and what a guitar. Great sound and playability. This FG that I purchased is also has a great sound as well.
Just purchased at a pawn shop a FG 180, 3 tuning fork, Nippon Gakki Red label, no SN, with 47-8-7 date stamp inside which corresponds to 1972 August 7th for production of the sides. I assume that this guitar was still a Japanese production model?? It has seen a lot of use but is still in decent shape. Has a little belly bow which causes high action. Should I try what the last poster did to get the bow out of the top? or does this guitar need a neck reset? I will post pics soon. My brother had on of these 30 years ago and what a guitar. Great sound and playability. This FG that I purchased is also has a great sound as well.
These older (1966-mid 70's) sound great, although they're not always playable.
Can you post a picture of the brace under the fretboard just inside the soundhole? I haven't seen many from that era without a serial number, but with Yamaha there's always an exception. But, you are correct with the date, but that was probably when they made ths sides. The guitar probably finished about a month later.
A little belly is normal. But a straight edge across the top behind the bridge. With one end touching the top, measure the gap at the other end. Up to 1/4" (1/8" per side) is OK. Unless there's a broken brace there's nothing you can do about it. The plywood has probably been like that for decades, there's nothing you can do with compressing it for a few days or even a few weeks. Months maybe.
Years of string tension tends to make the neck tip up and the bridge tip towards the soundhole, making the soundhole area collapse, causing high action. A Bridge Doctor might tip the bridge back but it won't do much for the action. Only a neck reset can fix the neck angle.
Check the neck angle by putting a 24" straight edge on the fretboard and pushing it until it hits the bridge. If it hits 1/16" or more below the top of the bridge the guitar needs a neck reset. I like to see 1/16" above. Anywhere in between can possibly be made playable by sanding the saddle or (CRINGE!) sanding the top of the bridge lower. But, beware lowering the string height above the top can affect the tone and output slightly. It's a trade-off. A neck reset is the right way to fix it, but the cost is typically more than what the guitar is worth. I do them for only $300, but the cost of shipping a guitar can be $125 each way. Not cheap!
Post some pictures, action measurements, and the neck projection.
Post by hendog1958 on Dec 25, 2019 22:23:24 GMT -5
Thanks CTGull for your quick response. Gap on outside of body top behind bridge with strait edge (side to side) is 3/8" or slightly less.(eyes are bad Straight edge down neck to bridge produces 1/8" below bridge top, perhaps a fraction more (3/16"?) . I am gonna string it up and see how it plays without messing with it first. I do like play down the neck some so might be an issue. I have successfully completed one neck reset on a '60's Harmony Arch Top recently and believe i can do this guitar as well.It also needs a fret job too. I appreciate all your tips in your guide regarding the FG's neck reset. As you can see from the pics of the inside there is a lot of glue everywhere. I will post pics in the Pics section above this thread.