Post by CTGull on Feb 14, 2020 6:37:32 GMT -5
Many times vintage Yamaha tuners are missing covers, or worn & sloppy, or some have already been replaced. Finding spare tuners for a 40 to 50 year old guitar is difficult. Typically you have to buy a second guitar for parts. Finding a direct replacement isn’t easy because the shafts on the old tuners are 6mm (.236”) vs. today’s standard of ¼” (.250”), and the chances of the mounting holes lining up is zero. The vintage Yamaha tuners have between 14:1 (early strip tuners), 15:1 (FG-150 & FG-180 tuners) and 16:1 (most closed back tuners) gear ratios.
For near drop in replacements for the open back tuners used on the FG-150 & FG-180, which have the old style 6mm (.236”) shafts, see REPLACEMENT TUNERS for vintage Yamaha FG - 3 x 3.
And for near drop in replacements for the strip tuners used on the FG-75, FG-75-1, FG-110, FG-110-1 & FG-140, also having the 6mm (.236”) shafts, see REPLACEMENT TUNERS for vintage Yamaha FG - STRIP (FG-75, 110 & 140). Or these Grover tuners would be a great upgrade.
But, the best option is to replace them with a quality 18:1 ratio tuner. I recommend Gover’s Sta-Tite V97-18 tuners. They are open back, vs. the closed tuners on most vintage FG’s. Open back tuners are about half the weight of closed back tuners (about 0.3 lbs vs. 0.6 lbs per set), which will make a noticeable difference in the weight of the headstock, and look great too. Beware there is an older 14:1 version that is slightly less expensive. I recommend spending the few dollars more and getting the higher ratio tuners, the tuning will be more precise. www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/tuning-machines/solid-peghead-guitar-tuning-machines/grover-181-sta-tite-97-18-series-3and3-tuners/ Nickel - Stew Mac item number 4592 - $55.52. Gold – Stew Mac item number 4592-G - $90.43.
But, they aren’t a drop in replacement. Not only are the shaft diameters different, the Grover bushings are .344 dia over the knurl. Existing tuner bushing holes are approx. 9mm (.354”). And the mounting holes won’t line up.
Replacing the tuners: Remove the existing tuners and bushings. The bushings are press fit in the headstock and are not easy to remove. I use a 5/16” diameter screw and tap with a hammer. BUT, the bushings have an undercut under the head and will blow chunks out of the head plate if you don’t back it up. You’ll need to clamp something to the headstock that has a hole in it a hair larger than the flange OD of the bushing. The bushings I’ve seen so far have an 11mm (.433”) diameter head, a 7/16” hole (.438”) works great. This will help keep the head plate from getting damaged. Skipping this step can get ugly. But, even with backing up the hole there still is a chance the head plate can get chipped. I use a maple furniture marker to hide any minor imperfections.
Build up the tuner bushing holes: Since the existing holes in the headstock are larger than the new tuner bushings, they need to be built up to allow the new bushings to be lightly pressed in, otherwise, they will to fall out when changing strings and get lost. The easiest way is to add layers of superglue to the holes & let them dry before installing the bushings. DO NOT glue the bushings in, just in case they need to be removed in the future. I apply the super glue to the holes with a toothpick vs. trying to squirt it in the hole and probably making a mess.
Or, replace the Bushings. Stew Mac item number 3461 $11.47 www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/tuning-machines/tuner-parts/vintage-style-tuner-bushings-2dde2928/
Another option is to use a .250” diameter reamer in a drill press, and carefully ream the .236” bushing ID to .250”. I haven’t tried this. The headstock needs to be well supported to keep it from tilting or lifting while reaming. This is untested and dangerous if not done correctly.
Drill the mounting holes: Grover recommends a #50 (.070”) drill for the mounting screws. Stew Mac item number 1711 - $10.30. With depth stop. www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/drill-bits/depth-stop-drill-bits/
I designed and 3D printed a drill jig for the #50 mounting holes. It’s ¼” thick, and has pressed in drill bushings, glued in with thin superglue to keep them from spinning. It uses a ¼” dia. x 1-1/4” long dowel pin to locate on the .250” tuner bushing diameter. It is clamped to the headstock with the edge parallel to the edge of the headstock. And flipped over for the tuners on the other side. I can share the STL file if anyone would like to print it, but the bushings will cost about $15 each. Previously I would clamp the tuner to the headstock and use the mounting holes in the tuner to locate the drill, which isn’t as precise since the screws are flat heads and won’t allow the tuner body to “float” to be able to line the tuner up straight afterward.
For near drop in replacements for the open back tuners used on the FG-150 & FG-180, which have the old style 6mm (.236”) shafts, see REPLACEMENT TUNERS for vintage Yamaha FG - 3 x 3.
And for near drop in replacements for the strip tuners used on the FG-75, FG-75-1, FG-110, FG-110-1 & FG-140, also having the 6mm (.236”) shafts, see REPLACEMENT TUNERS for vintage Yamaha FG - STRIP (FG-75, 110 & 140). Or these Grover tuners would be a great upgrade.
But, the best option is to replace them with a quality 18:1 ratio tuner. I recommend Gover’s Sta-Tite V97-18 tuners. They are open back, vs. the closed tuners on most vintage FG’s. Open back tuners are about half the weight of closed back tuners (about 0.3 lbs vs. 0.6 lbs per set), which will make a noticeable difference in the weight of the headstock, and look great too. Beware there is an older 14:1 version that is slightly less expensive. I recommend spending the few dollars more and getting the higher ratio tuners, the tuning will be more precise. www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/tuning-machines/solid-peghead-guitar-tuning-machines/grover-181-sta-tite-97-18-series-3and3-tuners/ Nickel - Stew Mac item number 4592 - $55.52. Gold – Stew Mac item number 4592-G - $90.43.
But, they aren’t a drop in replacement. Not only are the shaft diameters different, the Grover bushings are .344 dia over the knurl. Existing tuner bushing holes are approx. 9mm (.354”). And the mounting holes won’t line up.
Replacing the tuners: Remove the existing tuners and bushings. The bushings are press fit in the headstock and are not easy to remove. I use a 5/16” diameter screw and tap with a hammer. BUT, the bushings have an undercut under the head and will blow chunks out of the head plate if you don’t back it up. You’ll need to clamp something to the headstock that has a hole in it a hair larger than the flange OD of the bushing. The bushings I’ve seen so far have an 11mm (.433”) diameter head, a 7/16” hole (.438”) works great. This will help keep the head plate from getting damaged. Skipping this step can get ugly. But, even with backing up the hole there still is a chance the head plate can get chipped. I use a maple furniture marker to hide any minor imperfections.
Build up the tuner bushing holes: Since the existing holes in the headstock are larger than the new tuner bushings, they need to be built up to allow the new bushings to be lightly pressed in, otherwise, they will to fall out when changing strings and get lost. The easiest way is to add layers of superglue to the holes & let them dry before installing the bushings. DO NOT glue the bushings in, just in case they need to be removed in the future. I apply the super glue to the holes with a toothpick vs. trying to squirt it in the hole and probably making a mess.
Or, replace the Bushings. Stew Mac item number 3461 $11.47 www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/tuning-machines/tuner-parts/vintage-style-tuner-bushings-2dde2928/
Another option is to use a .250” diameter reamer in a drill press, and carefully ream the .236” bushing ID to .250”. I haven’t tried this. The headstock needs to be well supported to keep it from tilting or lifting while reaming. This is untested and dangerous if not done correctly.
Drill the mounting holes: Grover recommends a #50 (.070”) drill for the mounting screws. Stew Mac item number 1711 - $10.30. With depth stop. www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/drill-bits/depth-stop-drill-bits/
I designed and 3D printed a drill jig for the #50 mounting holes. It’s ¼” thick, and has pressed in drill bushings, glued in with thin superglue to keep them from spinning. It uses a ¼” dia. x 1-1/4” long dowel pin to locate on the .250” tuner bushing diameter. It is clamped to the headstock with the edge parallel to the edge of the headstock. And flipped over for the tuners on the other side. I can share the STL file if anyone would like to print it, but the bushings will cost about $15 each. Previously I would clamp the tuner to the headstock and use the mounting holes in the tuner to locate the drill, which isn’t as precise since the screws are flat heads and won’t allow the tuner body to “float” to be able to line the tuner up straight afterward.
