Post by CTGull on Nov 7, 2021 8:37:39 GMT -5
His story - I found a stripped/beat FG-300 at the dump and figured it would be a shame to let it be destroyed. Also, I figured "how hard can it be to find replacement parts?" Ha ha. Little did I know… Anyway, I found your site and I see you've come up with a solution for the bridge. I know very little about guitars. My son has played a little bit on a cheapo guitar (which honestly is probably fine since he's not that into it).
I've attached some pics of what I have and would like your input as to what I need. You may very well say to just trash it. On the other hand, if you would like this then you could have it for the cost of shipping. I just don't like to trash things. I'm into pinball and sometimes restore older machines.
My story – I replied that I make the saddle insert, and a bridge could be made, but the top looks to be a mess and the wood could be moldy. Shipping is expensive, possibly over $100, it’s probably not worth that.
He replied he’s in MA and comes down to CT once in a while. We could meet the next time he comes down. A week later he said he’d be coming down on Saturday. So yesterday we met at Wendy’s in Rocky Hill (right off I91, I’ve met a few people there). And we talked a bit.
The top finish was removed by a chemical stripper. There are a couple of runs down the side and a little on the inside. Not only was the bridge removed, the inserts for the adjustable bridge were too. I wish they had left the top as is and not filled the low spots. Even after the top was stripped there is still evidence that the pickguard broke down and crumbled, as many of them do from improper storage. I’m assuming the top was really ugly.
BUT!! Internally it looks solid! Except the bridge plate is chewed up with a chunk missing at the pin holes.
So the plan would be to figure out if the top is moldy & treat it, then sand it smooth, and apply some kind of opaque finish to hide the mess. And add to the bridge plate, and apply a 1/16” maple patch over it. And make a new non-adjustable bridge to fit the original bridge area. And possibly remove the neck for a neck reset.
Checking the neck projection I find it is good, but that depends on the height of the new bridge. The neck stays on.
I sent a semi-local (Boston area) customer some pictures of it and he’s interested in it, leaving the top as is. He likes the old beat up “Trigger” look. And he's wanted a FG-300 but can't justify the cost. This one will be cheap. So we start talking about possibilities. I could make a replacement bridge and patch the bridge plate. But I remember I have an original 1970 FG-180 bridge I removed from another project. I put it on the top and find it is just a hair smaller all around and doesn’t look too bad. He points out that it looks too clean in comparison to the guitar. We’re still thinking about options to age it. Normally I wouldn’t give up a spare vintage bridge, but this seems like a good application. Making a new bridge would be using modern Indian rosewood, which has a purplish color, not the old vintage brown color. It would look out of place. Another advantage of using the FG-180 bridge is the pin holes are 7/16” away from the old holes in top & bridge plate. I can leave the bridge plate as is and drill new holes thru the new bridge after the bridge is glued on.
BUT!! Before I can install the bridge I have to fix the split thru the bridge pins and beyond. It’s split pretty far on the treble end. Normally when the bridge is on the guitar I humidify the crack to close it, then wick water thin super glue into it to hold it shut. But then I have to scrape and sand the whole top of the bridge to clean up the excess glue and even out the color. But since it’s not attached I used epoxy, which cleans up easy with alcohol before it cures. Afterward I will have to mill some slots in the bottom to add some 1/16” maple patches at 90 degrees to reinforce the bridge so it can’t completely split. And I’m going to have to deepen the saddle slot. The bridge had been sanded a little, not leaving enough slot depth to support a tall saddle. The neck projects 5/32” above this bridge, I assume the saddle will need to be .20” high.
Not too bad here!
This thing was PLAYED!!!
Not much to say here!! What a mess! But using the FG-180 will put the new pin holes in the middle of the solid area.
this is a copy of a tracing I did of my Taiwan 1971 FG-300. It is a little larger in some spots.
I've attached some pics of what I have and would like your input as to what I need. You may very well say to just trash it. On the other hand, if you would like this then you could have it for the cost of shipping. I just don't like to trash things. I'm into pinball and sometimes restore older machines.
My story – I replied that I make the saddle insert, and a bridge could be made, but the top looks to be a mess and the wood could be moldy. Shipping is expensive, possibly over $100, it’s probably not worth that.
He replied he’s in MA and comes down to CT once in a while. We could meet the next time he comes down. A week later he said he’d be coming down on Saturday. So yesterday we met at Wendy’s in Rocky Hill (right off I91, I’ve met a few people there). And we talked a bit.
The top finish was removed by a chemical stripper. There are a couple of runs down the side and a little on the inside. Not only was the bridge removed, the inserts for the adjustable bridge were too. I wish they had left the top as is and not filled the low spots. Even after the top was stripped there is still evidence that the pickguard broke down and crumbled, as many of them do from improper storage. I’m assuming the top was really ugly.
BUT!! Internally it looks solid! Except the bridge plate is chewed up with a chunk missing at the pin holes.
So the plan would be to figure out if the top is moldy & treat it, then sand it smooth, and apply some kind of opaque finish to hide the mess. And add to the bridge plate, and apply a 1/16” maple patch over it. And make a new non-adjustable bridge to fit the original bridge area. And possibly remove the neck for a neck reset.
Checking the neck projection I find it is good, but that depends on the height of the new bridge. The neck stays on.
I sent a semi-local (Boston area) customer some pictures of it and he’s interested in it, leaving the top as is. He likes the old beat up “Trigger” look. And he's wanted a FG-300 but can't justify the cost. This one will be cheap. So we start talking about possibilities. I could make a replacement bridge and patch the bridge plate. But I remember I have an original 1970 FG-180 bridge I removed from another project. I put it on the top and find it is just a hair smaller all around and doesn’t look too bad. He points out that it looks too clean in comparison to the guitar. We’re still thinking about options to age it. Normally I wouldn’t give up a spare vintage bridge, but this seems like a good application. Making a new bridge would be using modern Indian rosewood, which has a purplish color, not the old vintage brown color. It would look out of place. Another advantage of using the FG-180 bridge is the pin holes are 7/16” away from the old holes in top & bridge plate. I can leave the bridge plate as is and drill new holes thru the new bridge after the bridge is glued on.
BUT!! Before I can install the bridge I have to fix the split thru the bridge pins and beyond. It’s split pretty far on the treble end. Normally when the bridge is on the guitar I humidify the crack to close it, then wick water thin super glue into it to hold it shut. But then I have to scrape and sand the whole top of the bridge to clean up the excess glue and even out the color. But since it’s not attached I used epoxy, which cleans up easy with alcohol before it cures. Afterward I will have to mill some slots in the bottom to add some 1/16” maple patches at 90 degrees to reinforce the bridge so it can’t completely split. And I’m going to have to deepen the saddle slot. The bridge had been sanded a little, not leaving enough slot depth to support a tall saddle. The neck projects 5/32” above this bridge, I assume the saddle will need to be .20” high.
Not too bad here!
This thing was PLAYED!!!
Not much to say here!! What a mess! But using the FG-180 will put the new pin holes in the middle of the solid area.
this is a copy of a tracing I did of my Taiwan 1971 FG-300. It is a little larger in some spots.
