Post by CTGull on Jun 14, 2023 18:28:39 GMT -5
The Story – As has happened a few times before, while watching Shopgoodwill.com, I see a desirable FG model in good shape and the price is low a few hours before it ends, I throw a low bid on it, and occasionally I get lucky and win. I don’t NEED another guitar!! But it’s another worthwhile project. The bridge looks split thru the pin holes, but nothing else obviously wrong with it. It looked pretty clean, actually, but there was no picture of the upper frets to confirm it hadn’t been played much. It was shipped the next day after I paid for it, and I received it 2 days later.
INITIAL OBSERVATIONS – It was packed well, with crumpled brown paper. The original carboard case is missing the handle. Inside the case is more brown paper, although only on top, none on the sides or under the neck. But it looks to be fine. The strings were slacked, as requested. It looks to be sort of a “closet queen”, probably unplayed for years, although it was played a bit in it’s early years, judging by some minor fret divots in the first 2 frets. Only 3 notable dings on the top. Here are many parallel fine finish cracks in the body, it was probably improperly stored. The pickguard seems to be firmly attached. The bridge is split between the pin holes, but they don’t extend past the pins. There are 2 cracks in front of the pin holes, one extending about ½” out from the low E, and another between the B & E string ramps. There is a 1-1/2” long slight separation at the bottom of the heel on both sides.
Tuned to “D”. The low E string tuner button is partially melted! The tuners are “gritty”. The neck relief is a bit high. The strings are sitting on top of what looks to be the original nut, with some slightly filed/worn grooves, like the nut was never slotted!! So, obviously, the nut action is high. Putting a capo on the first fret with a .013” feeler, the action is 13/64” low D & 3/16” high D!! One of the highest I’ve seen!! There is some bulge in the top behind the bridge, and the bridge is tipped slightly, but not enough to require a Bridge Doctor. The straightedge shows about 3/32” on each side. The bridge is .27” thick, the saddle sticks out .09”/.09”.
Removed the strings. They are very old and will not be saved. Had difficulty getting the ball ends thru the bridge. Cut the strings in front of at the sound hole, unwound and removed the tail ends, and removed the ball ends from the bridge with difficulty. With the saddle being low, it was very difficult to remove, had to use a tiny screwdriver to pry it out on the bass end. The saddle slot is .117” wide x .13”/.17”/.12” deep. Removing the rusted head screws and removing the truss rod cover, I find the TR nut slots a bit mangled, probably from someone trying to lower the high action, but probably many years ago, before it was put away for possibly decades. While there is minor fret wear for the first 2 frets, the patterns of worn finger grunge shows it was played all over the neck. With no string tension, the straight edge hits on the first & last frets (with a .03” gap in the middle) and projects 1/8” below the top of the bridge.
Internally, nothing unusual, the bridge plate is a mess. The date code is stamped on both sides. The first few digits of the serial number aren’t visible, but by the date code I know what they should be.
The only packing in the case was on top.
A LITTLE dusty!
Not many marks on the top.
The action, and bridge & top flatness with no string tension.
The bridge & saddle are a little low.
There is some bulge in the top behind the bridge, but not too bad.
The action with the strings slacked. Not good!!
A slight crack in the heel corners.
Is that a marshmallow on the low E tuner??
The back of the neck isn't too bad.
The back is fairly clean.
There are fine parallel cracks in the finish all over the body.
Some minor divots in the first 2 frets.
Some cracks in the bridge.
What is this?? It looks like the nut wasn't slotted??
There is an obvious bend in the neck at the body.
A bit more bulge in the top when tuned to "D".
Who melted the tuner button???
The slots in the nut are only at the back. They look to be hand cut. The nut looks to be from the factory.
It's hard to take pics of the frets.
The cracks in the bridge.
The slot in the truss rod nut is a mess.
The serial number is very faded. I was able to read the last 5 digits and guessed the first 3 by the internal date code and my list.
The date code is on both sides.
The bracing looks good. The "typical" bridge plate does not.
The typical blown out chunks.
Another attempt at the serial number.
INITIAL OBSERVATIONS – It was packed well, with crumpled brown paper. The original carboard case is missing the handle. Inside the case is more brown paper, although only on top, none on the sides or under the neck. But it looks to be fine. The strings were slacked, as requested. It looks to be sort of a “closet queen”, probably unplayed for years, although it was played a bit in it’s early years, judging by some minor fret divots in the first 2 frets. Only 3 notable dings on the top. Here are many parallel fine finish cracks in the body, it was probably improperly stored. The pickguard seems to be firmly attached. The bridge is split between the pin holes, but they don’t extend past the pins. There are 2 cracks in front of the pin holes, one extending about ½” out from the low E, and another between the B & E string ramps. There is a 1-1/2” long slight separation at the bottom of the heel on both sides.
Tuned to “D”. The low E string tuner button is partially melted! The tuners are “gritty”. The neck relief is a bit high. The strings are sitting on top of what looks to be the original nut, with some slightly filed/worn grooves, like the nut was never slotted!! So, obviously, the nut action is high. Putting a capo on the first fret with a .013” feeler, the action is 13/64” low D & 3/16” high D!! One of the highest I’ve seen!! There is some bulge in the top behind the bridge, and the bridge is tipped slightly, but not enough to require a Bridge Doctor. The straightedge shows about 3/32” on each side. The bridge is .27” thick, the saddle sticks out .09”/.09”.
Removed the strings. They are very old and will not be saved. Had difficulty getting the ball ends thru the bridge. Cut the strings in front of at the sound hole, unwound and removed the tail ends, and removed the ball ends from the bridge with difficulty. With the saddle being low, it was very difficult to remove, had to use a tiny screwdriver to pry it out on the bass end. The saddle slot is .117” wide x .13”/.17”/.12” deep. Removing the rusted head screws and removing the truss rod cover, I find the TR nut slots a bit mangled, probably from someone trying to lower the high action, but probably many years ago, before it was put away for possibly decades. While there is minor fret wear for the first 2 frets, the patterns of worn finger grunge shows it was played all over the neck. With no string tension, the straight edge hits on the first & last frets (with a .03” gap in the middle) and projects 1/8” below the top of the bridge.
Internally, nothing unusual, the bridge plate is a mess. The date code is stamped on both sides. The first few digits of the serial number aren’t visible, but by the date code I know what they should be.
The only packing in the case was on top.
A LITTLE dusty!
Not many marks on the top.
The action, and bridge & top flatness with no string tension.
The bridge & saddle are a little low.
There is some bulge in the top behind the bridge, but not too bad.
The action with the strings slacked. Not good!!
A slight crack in the heel corners.
Is that a marshmallow on the low E tuner??
The back of the neck isn't too bad.
The back is fairly clean.
There are fine parallel cracks in the finish all over the body.
Some minor divots in the first 2 frets.
Some cracks in the bridge.
What is this?? It looks like the nut wasn't slotted??
There is an obvious bend in the neck at the body.
A bit more bulge in the top when tuned to "D".
Who melted the tuner button???
The slots in the nut are only at the back. They look to be hand cut. The nut looks to be from the factory.
It's hard to take pics of the frets.
The cracks in the bridge.
The slot in the truss rod nut is a mess.
The serial number is very faded. I was able to read the last 5 digits and guessed the first 3 by the internal date code and my list.
The date code is on both sides.
The bracing looks good. The "typical" bridge plate does not.
The typical blown out chunks.
Another attempt at the serial number.
